tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32646882086146436942024-03-12T17:51:18.302-07:00Tales From the Paint PotHi all, thanks for having a look at my own corner of the blogosphere. This blog will serve as a photo record of all my miniature painting projects. I hope you enjoy :) Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08509354813268427653noreply@blogger.comBlogger11125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3264688208614643694.post-55796324128962912562015-02-26T04:18:00.001-08:002015-02-26T04:21:18.970-08:00Xuron Professional Plastic Sprue Cutters - short review<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I recently set out to buy a new pair of plastic clippers for removing components from a sprue. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I
decided to look around on the internet to see what other model makers
were using, and came across some glowing reviews for the Xuron
Professional Sprue Cutters product. A local online retailer, <a href="http://hobbytools.com.au/" target="_blank">hobbytools.com.au</a>
sold them for around $30, and they looked like they checked the boxes I
was after – the clippers use a shearing action and the blades tapered
to a fine point. The end blades are slightly bent to allow access to all
parts of the sprue, and they looked large and sturdy. I figured I’d
give them a go and ordered a set.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Having
used them now on one project, I can say that the many glowing online
reviews of this product are entirely correct. These things are amazing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The
build is very good, with lightweight but strong metal covered by nice
rubber handles. I like the size of them, which is large enough to fill
your hand so you feel as if you have complete control – many clippers by
gaming companies tend to have much smaller designs. The spring-back is
gentle, it’s just enough to give you a nice release from the closed
position without the sheers flying back when you release the pressure.
The blades are very sharp and taper to a very fine point, meaning you
can do precision cutting on minute and delicate components. The blades
are also slightly offset, so that they use a shearing action to cut
rather than pressure. This gives a cleaner cut requiring less force, and
also means components don’t go flying off the sprue to land
who-knows-where.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The
Xuron Professional Sprue Cutters are an excellent product, well worth
the money. I can completely recommend them. You can find them for sale
in Australia <a href="http://www.hobbytools.com.au/xuron-2175et-professional-sprue-cutter/">here</a>, or you can use Amazon <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-2175ET-Professional-Sprue-Cutter/dp/B001TMZ7QA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1424952710&sr=8-1&keywords=xuron+sprue+cutter">here</a>.</span><br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08509354813268427653noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3264688208614643694.post-52786545805284633512015-02-18T00:09:00.000-08:002015-02-26T04:21:37.215-08:00Painting ruin-style bases easily<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Hi all,</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Thought I'd do a quick post showing you how I paint up my bases. This is a very easy process using a minimal palette and really only drybrushing as a technique. The effects are simple but striking and very quick to do.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">These bases are from Adelaide based company Back 2 Base-ix, who make an amazing range of hobby related products - check out their website <a href="http://www.back2base-ix.com/">here.</a> Their resin bases are very well detailed, very well cast and very affordable. These bases are from their Ruins range. The one below is a 60mm base, but this same technique applies for all sizes. Likewise, this technique would work on any dirt, slate, rock, concrete, rubble themed base you might have.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">So the base is undercoated in black. The dirt is given a coat of Vallejo's Game Colour Extra Opaque (VGC EO) Heavy Sienna, and the ruins are given a coat of VGC EO Heavy Charcoal.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j261/liammail/c04c8f58-e231-43c7-a62e-fdd358e7c1d5_zps85jivvqf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j261/liammail/c04c8f58-e231-43c7-a62e-fdd358e7c1d5_zps85jivvqf.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I then finish the ruins first, then do the dirt. This is because getting any brown from drybrushing onto the ruins simply looks like more dirt, whereas grey on the dirt looks a little strange. So the next step is to cover the tiles of the ruins and the main surfaces of the ruins in a mix of 1:1 VGC EO Heavy Charcoal and Vallejo Game Colour (VGC) Cold Grey. Leave the Heavy Charcoal in the deepest recesses and between the tiles.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j261/liammail/272C76F9-B3B0-4DCF-96EC-8D250A8771AF_zpst5nvk425.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j261/liammail/272C76F9-B3B0-4DCF-96EC-8D250A8771AF_zpst5nvk425.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Give the ruins a drybrush of pure VGC Cold Grey.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j261/liammail/f43ca636-bb0a-4874-95a3-7ea7dbc56c72_zpsnexfo5pc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j261/liammail/f43ca636-bb0a-4874-95a3-7ea7dbc56c72_zpsnexfo5pc.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Give the ruins a final light drybrush of VGC Wolf Grey.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j261/liammail/3ff3584f-2708-4727-bc56-339af5b93932_zps2uh3mnvo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j261/liammail/3ff3584f-2708-4727-bc56-339af5b93932_zps2uh3mnvo.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Now onto the dirt. The first drybrush for the dirt is with VGC EO Heavy Brown.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j261/liammail/f26f2e8e-a8b3-42f1-83f4-7d177ca36059_zpsbnigafen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j261/liammail/f26f2e8e-a8b3-42f1-83f4-7d177ca36059_zpsbnigafen.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The next drybrush is with VGC Bone white.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j261/liammail/8f52a304-ded7-4981-b393-1cbcdbd35775_zpsi1tyo5nj.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j261/liammail/8f52a304-ded7-4981-b393-1cbcdbd35775_zpsi1tyo5nj.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Finally, a wash of Army Painter Soft Tone ink (a light brown ink) is given to the dirt.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j261/liammail/d2b9e7e1-7c33-440d-a6a3-c34d310f4e94_zpsh310qsiv.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j261/liammail/d2b9e7e1-7c33-440d-a6a3-c34d310f4e94_zpsh310qsiv.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">That's it! Add some static grass or grass tufts for a more dynamic effect once the base is finished - I'll add some pics showing this soon.</span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08509354813268427653noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3264688208614643694.post-24823415020068081192014-11-11T17:48:00.000-08:002015-02-26T04:21:53.617-08:00Terrain making - River<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I purchased some river sections through <a href="http://www.thecombatcompany.com/">The Combat Company</a> which were made by <a href="http://www.amera.co.uk/">Amera Plastic Mouldings</a>. These are great pieces and very inexpensive. They are vacuum formed mouldings, so they do not come on a sprue and are not hard plastic. Being vacuum formed they have straight edges, but these are easy cut back and shape as you wish.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The reason I didn't simply build up the sections myself using plaster or modelling clay or similar is two-fold. First, this is a time consuming process and second, the measurements of the Amera sections are done for you. That is, you can line up any section with any other section and it will match. If I was to do this myself, I guarantee I would have measurements slightly out here and there and when I went to put two sections together they wouldn't match.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">So, the materials used here were:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Amera Plastic Mouldings river sections - (4 straight, 4 curved)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Italeri plastic stone bridge</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Thick cardboard </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Noch Spring Meadow static grass</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Vallejo Still Water</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Vallejo Water Effects</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Woodland Scenics clump foliage and lichen</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Sand</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Stones </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Paint</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I use thick card to base my scenery on as I can cut it easily with a Stanley knife (a box cutter to my American friends). One step that isn't in the photos below is sealing the cardboard. I use watered down PVA glue and brush it on quite thickly on both sides of the cardboard. The cardboard absorbs the liquid and when it dries you get a nice, hard surface. It is still a little flexible, but much less prone to warping, and is slightly waterproof too. As the glue is drying you will notice the cardboard bending. Not to worry, usually it levels out once fully dry, but if you are worried about this, you can weigh the pieces down by putting some heavy objects such as books on top. Make sure you put a piece of baking paper down on the surface first, and layer baking paper between each cardboard piece, and finish with a piece of baking paper. This means nothing will stick to your surface or your books! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Okay, so onto the actual river building.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I started by gluing the sections to card, then cutting these to shape.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Next, I sanded them back to rough up the surface. You must do this, it is essential. The plastic is super smooth so nothing will take to it if you don't roughen up the surface - paint or glue will simply slide off the plastic. Use a fine grade sandpaper - don't mangle the plastic, you just want the surface to be grainy.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Once this was done I added some stones. I used a white silicone and applied it with a caulking gun. This gives you some nice variance in the ground as it builds up the surface around the stones. You could just as easily use plaster, putty or modelling clay.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">One this was dry I added sand to the banks, then undercoated the sections in black.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I used craft acrylic paint to paint the sand. I started with a burnt umber colour and drybrushed a few successive highlights up to a yellow oxide colour. In the picture, it looks *very* yellow, this is just because it is wet. When dry it has a nice yellow/brown natural earth colour.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Next, I painted the river itself. I'm not a fan of bright blue or green rivers on wargaming tables. They look a little too fake to my eye. If you look at a river you notice that the river itself is a sort of indeterminate colour - grey/black almost. This doesn't really scale down very well, so I decided on a very dark blue with some sandy banks just visible under the water. I was happy with this colour, but I would probably experiment even further if I was making another one. I actually started painting this with a brush, but I was unhappy with the finish so I used my airbrush. If you are going to use a brush, I would suggest maybe even using inks over a white undercoat and building up the layers. This way you won't get visible brushstrokes.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">With the painting done I then flocked the banks with my favourite blend of static grass: Spring Meadow by Noch.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">So now the river was ready to have some water effects added! I stopped up the ends of the sections with baking paper and cardboard offcuts, then poured some still water on to the sections. After about 48 hours, it set. The effect was okay, and the reflective properties were amazing, but I was a little unhappy about two things.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">1) The water looked too static. Like glass.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255,255,255,0);">2) An interesting little problem had arisen...You will notice that
on the river bed I have drawn an arrow to remind me which way the water
is flowing for that section. After I painted the river bed and put still
water effects over the paint, the arrow bled through. Some kind of
reaction between the chemicals of the texta, the paint and the water
effects! There was no way to fix it. My river sections all had big ugly arrows under the water, and they were really obvious.<br /><br />So,
I pulled up the water, and the paint came with it. I sanded the beds
back, then repainted them, then SEALED THEM WITH MATT SEALER. Haha!<br /><br />When it came to add the water effects again, I decided on something different.<br /><br />Adding
still water is a pain. You have stop up the ends of the river sections,
pour the water effects, keep it level for days, then remove the stops.
It's time consuming, and as I said earlier, I don't really like the finished effect. The reflective properties are awesome, but the water looks
too static. To counter this, I bought some vallejo paste that you can
use a pallet knife or similar to form water effects. I put this around
rocks etc on my original sections.<br /><br />I thought "why not do the
whole section with this stuff?" I googled around and found a guy who had done this using a popsicle stick. So I used a large popsicle stick and
formed the water directly onto the river bed, no liquid water effects were used - this was the paste straight onto the river bed. I am much happier with this effect. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255,255,255,0);">Lastly, I needed a bridge, and I thought Italeri's stone bridge was perfect. It's designed with 20mm scale in mind, but works fine for 28mm and 15mm. I simply airbrushed this with some greys and then washed it with black ink in some areas. I used one river straight section for the bridge and permanently fixed it in place. I added the beginnings of a dirt road at the end of the bridge so that my dirt roads would align with it on the table. I finished this off by weathering the bridge with some MIG pigments.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255,255,255,0);">Last, I added some Woodland Scenics clump foliage and Lichen in various spots on the banks to give it some extra visual appeal.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255,255,255,0);">That's it! Not a difficult process, but a very effective finish.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Okay, so this is the water effects using liquid still water. This was just before it dried and the arrows bled through. So onto how I fixed the problem:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255,255,255,0);"><br /></span></span>
<br />
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255,255,255,0);"><br /></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08509354813268427653noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3264688208614643694.post-24840592837458879382014-10-30T18:31:00.002-07:002015-02-26T04:22:09.319-08:00Trees - terrain making<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">After a too-long hiatus from my blog, I'm jumping back in with some terrain making. Regular updates will now a be a thing I promise :) </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I thought I’d
take you through the process I went through in making some trees for my table.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The
materials I used were:</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">4Ground
Terrain tree bases</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Woodland
Scenics deciduous tree armatures – 5” to 7”</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Woodland
Scenics clump foliage, light, medium and dark green</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Woodland
Scenics Hob-e tack</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Static
grass (I use Noch Spring Meadow)</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-synthesis: weight style; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-synthesis: weight style; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">PVA
glue</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Hot
glue gun</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-synthesis: weight style; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-synthesis: weight style; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Polyfiller</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Sand
and gravel</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-synthesis: weight style; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-language-override: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-synthesis: weight style; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Paint</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The 4Ground
bases are dirt cheap and very easy to simply put together. I forgot to take a
picture of them before I started, but you can see them here: <a href="http://www.4ground.co.uk/Default.aspx?page=268&pid=306">http://www.4ground.co.uk/Default.aspx?page=268&pid=306</a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The large
base is </span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">£1.30, the small base is </span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">£1</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">. Bargain – even with shipping to Australia. All of the bases with shipping came to about </span>£16, or around $30 Australian. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">They consist
of two main pieces, a base and a top plate that has the holes cut into it for
the tree bases. The tree bases are nice sized discs that allow for lots of room
for you to add additional modeling if you desire.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">With the
bases constructed I then painted them black, put polyfiller around the edge to
give it a smooth, non-stepped look, and put filler in random spots to make the
ground a little more contoured. I then glued some larger pieces of gravel in
random spots to simulate some rocks and boulders, and then finally flocked the
whole base with sand.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">When everything
was dry I painted the bases brown and drybrushed them successive lighter
shades. I painted the boulders grey. I have no idea if this is actually
geologically correct – grey rocks on brown earth, but it looks very visually
appealing to my eye.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I stuck the
bases of the tree armatures onto the 4ground bases and modeled these in the
same way – filler, rocks, sand, paint.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">When this
was all dry I put on the static grass.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Okay, so
the trees themselves. I watched a few youtube videos on how to construct a tree
using armatures and clump foliage, and as I’d never done it before, I followed
these. Trevor from Woodland Scenics (what else would a Train guy be named)
makes it look easy.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br />
So I twisted the branches around and got the armatures into a shape I was happy
with. It’s worth noting something here. The branches are positioned on the
trunk on two sides only, so you need to twist them around to get full coverage
over the whole tree. Even then, they tend to gravitate back towards one side.
This actually worked to my advantage in putting the trees on the terrain bases,
because it meant I could align the two flatter sides and branches weren’t
getting in the way. However, if you were looking at creating individual tree
stands, I would even go so far to clip off branches from the trunk and glue
them on the faces that don’t have any branches.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">With the
armatures done, I lightly airbrushed the trunks a brown colour to give them a
less plastic look. I then painted the branches with hob-e tack and waited the required
time to let it set. When dry, it’s a tack substance that lets you put clump
foliage directly on the area that has been painted with the tack.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">So I did
this, and they looked good. I left them to dry overnight. In the morning, I
would say half of the foliage had shed and fallen off the branches. I could
easily pick off large parts of other foliage as well. So I turned the trees
upside down and shook them, and most of the foliage came off. I reapplied the
hob-e tack, and waited longer this time for it to set, a good hour. I went
through the application of foliage process again, and then put them to one side
overnight.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Next
morning, a similar but less disastrous result. Less shedding, but still large
clumps had come away. I got out my hot glue gun and used that instead. Worked a
treat. My single biggest piece of advice here is that hob-e tack, as well as
being appallingly spelled, is junk. It might be okay for a fixed layout, but it
just doesn’t have the staying power for terrain that is being continually picked
up. The hot glue gun is a little messier, but gives a much better bond. Also,
don’t “dip” the tree into a bowl of foliage like our man Trevor does – this gives
terrible coverage. Take the individual clumps and pinch them into the branches –
it’s a much firmer contact between the foliage and the branch surface areas.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">With this
done I sprayed everything vigorously with matte sealer. This hardens the
foliage and makes the whole tree sturdier. Note that they are still a bit fragile.
They are fine if you store them well and get them out to put on a table, but I
wouldn’t want to be stacking them in a box at a club or something similar. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Final word
on the foliage. I bought the three colours that Woodland scenic sell: Light
Green, Medium Green and Dark Green. There is almost no colour difference
between medium and dark green. IN direct sunlight you can just tell the
difference. I’d go with light and medium, you don’t need all three. Also, make
sure you only use one colour on one tree. Trees don’t have big colour variances
in their leaves, so a mixture of foliage on the one tree will look strange. I
have seen examples of this online and they look weird. Use one colour for each
tree, but you can then vary the trees on the bases.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Hope this
gives you some ideas if you’re thinking of going down this path with your
trees. </span></span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08509354813268427653noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3264688208614643694.post-80952647724729026732013-03-12T05:12:00.000-07:002015-02-26T04:22:25.643-08:00<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Some WIP shots of my Assault Terminators.</span><br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08509354813268427653noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3264688208614643694.post-66846496726312971132013-02-17T01:41:00.004-08:002015-02-26T04:28:45.903-08:00Thoughts on Vallejo paint...<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Vallejo paint</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j261/liammail/Vallejo_zpsadb98d7e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j261/liammail/Vallejo_zpsadb98d7e.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">VGC paints on my paint station, with an Army Painter Strong Tone ink wash. You can see how the medium has separated from the pigment in the Parasite Brown bottle.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US">T<span style="font-size: small;">here are dozens of companies out there
selling paint specially formulated to be used on models and miniatures. If you
are entering the world of painting for the first time it can be a little
daunting. </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US">Most painters, myself included, will use a
mix of paint from several different companies. I use Vallejo paints almost
exclusively, with some Games Workshop here and there – but very little. </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US">If you are starting out painting, there may
be a local Games Workshop in your area, or an independent game store that
stocks Games Workshop paint, so you might be tempted to start there as it is
easy to get a hold of. First up, there is absolutely nothing wrong with GW
paint. The range is now very extensive and it’s a great paint to start using,
You will not encounter any serious issues with consistency or quality.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US">The problem, like most things GW related,
comes from the cost. It simply isn’t worth what you pay. Many moons ago, when I
started painting, GW paints came in cylindrical pots that were 20 mls and
fairly priced. The first major pot redesign saw them change into a hex shape
and drop 3 mls, to 17 mls. Still fine, still pretty good quality. The disaster
came in the late 90s when they changed the size substantially to 12 mls and
made the lids screw caps, which promptly got glued shut by paint after about
three uses. The bottle design stayed, as did the size, even when the paint cap
changed to a flip cap. The current design is a good little pot – the operative
word being little, that is hard to knock over and has a flip lid. It’s still 12
mls though, and it is still pricier than most competitors whose pots contain
more paint.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US">I made the switch to Vallejo some years ago
and haven’t looked back. The Vallejo Game Colour (VGC) range was originally
modeled on the GW range, and matched it both in tone and naming ) VGC’s “Bloody
Red “to GW’s “Blood Red” for example). With GW’s range having undergone an
extensive overhaul, the close conversion between the two ranges is no longer
there, but it doesn’t really matter: The Vallejo range is superior quality and
quantity. Vallejo pots are 17 mls and the paint itself is a slightly thinner
consistency than GW. The pigment is much smaller, meaning the pigment and the
medium often separate in Vallejo pots. You will see a milky liquid on top of
the solid colour of the pot has been left to sit for any length of time.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US">As a result, shaking the bejeezus out of a
Vallejo pot is entirely necessary. Failure to do so means you get medium on
your palette, not colour. The less medium in the pot, the thicker it gets, the
sooner it dries out. I purchased some glass beads from a craft store and put
one in each of my Vallejo pots, which speeds up the agitation process.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US">Vallejo is cheaper than GW paint as well as
being more voluminous. Online, this is even more apparent. You get much more
paint for your buck with Vallejo, and as we all know, in this hobby you need
every cent you can muster.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US">The biggest criticism of Vallejo pots is
also its biggest selling point: the dropper bottle. Some people hate them, some
love them. I prefer them to the flip lids of GW style pots, but either doesn’t
really bother me. Your paint doesn’t sit on your desk open with a dropper
bottle, meaning it is not exposed to air and so it will probably last longer.
But some people prefer taking paint from the pot with a brush to put on the
palette for mixing, some prefer squeezing it out with a dropper bottle. That’s
really about it.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US">Vallejo is often criticized for their
metallic range, and GW is usually declared a winner on this one. It’s not true.
The Vallejo metallics are practically identical to GWs. Consistency is fine. I
think this is an often-repeated internet rumour that people say to make
themselves sound knowledgeable on paint without having tried them. Vallejo also
make a series called Model Air, which is designed for use in an airbrush. These
metallics are even better, being packed with nearly twice as much pigment as
normal VGC paint. You can use these with a brush, they don’t have to go into an
airbrush.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US">Vallejo has a range of Extra Opaque paint
that was released as an alternative to GW’s Foundation or Base range. These are
designed as base colours and can go over any primed colour, even black. GW’s
Foundation paint is actually slightly better here in terms of consistency. For
example, if you have a look at my Flesh Tearer Marines, it took two coats of
VGC Extra Opaque Red to get a solid base colour, whereas the GW Base Red colour
did a practice model in one coat. But I didn’t like the colour as much and
preferred the Vallejo red. The Extra Opaque range is a great set though and I
use them a lot.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US">There’s no two ways about it, GW washes are
vastly superior to Vallejos. Vallejo’s washes dry chalky, whereas GWs give a
much better finish. It pained me to have to go back to GW, but they really do
have a better product here. That was until I discovered the Army Painter…</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US">The Army Painter is a Danish company that
started off selling a dipping method for miniatures – a way to paint up models
quickly by taking a model painted in basic base colours and dipping it into a
jar of liquid that stains the model and gives immediate shading. It’s an old
miniature painter’s trick that goes way back. It’s essentially wood stain
varnish dyed to either a brown or black colour. Anyway, the Army painter has
gone from strength to strength and now sell their own range of paint and inks
that can be used as washes. Three coloured inks are available, Soft (light
brown), Strong (dark brown) and Dark (black). You can use these on any colour
to add instant shading. Games Workshop did have these same colours covered in
their old washes range as Gryphon Sepia, Devlan Mud and Badab Black. With their
new range and formulas, these have changed to Agrax Earthshde (doesn’t that
roll off the tongue?) and Nuln Oil. These are pretty good, but inferior to the
Amry Painter inks. If you are new to painting, these will give you instant
results to be proud of. And even if you’ve been painting for years, these will
change the way you look at shading models.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US">I haven’t tried any of the other
manufacturer’s paint on the market, such as the P3 range, Reaper, Foundry etc, so I can’t comment, but those
paints have their fans and suit other painter’s needs. If you are a fan of
these paints, please leave a comment!</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US">That’s about it really. My advice is
simple. If GW paint is all you can get in your area, go with it, it’s a great
product. But be aware you are being ripped off. Online shopping means you can
have Vallejo delivered at a great price and it will last you a lot longer. I
can’t recommend it enough.</span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US">EDIT: I have since found out that the new "Layer" system of paint that GW uses is already thinned in the pot. That is, the paint is already thinned down with water. This is just ridiculous. The entire point of having the paint slightly too thick from the pot and thinning it on your pallette is so you have complete and total control of your paint consistency. For this reason, I'd avoid this paint if I was you. Go with Vallejo, P3, Reaper, Foundry, or Cote d'Arms. </span></span></span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08509354813268427653noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3264688208614643694.post-86646164614947191642013-02-16T22:47:00.002-08:002015-02-26T04:29:06.730-08:00Flesh Tearer Sanguinary Guard<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Okay, the last of my completed Flesh Tearer models, for now (Assault Terminators are nearly done), the mighty Sanguinary Guard.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">These models were converted and modeled by PaganFoam from my designs. As you can see, he did a fantastic job. The Banner Pole had to be an icon to reflect the barbaric nature of the Flesh Tearers - a renaissance style banner is okay for the Blood Angels, but it seemed logical that the Flesh Tearers would have a totem pole, probably constructed on the battlefield.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The piece is another resin casting from Chapterhouse Studios. These are their vehicle icons for the Flesh Tearers, but I am using them mainly as banner icons. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The colour scheme came about from a desire to distance myself from the golden angelic look of the Games Workshop colour scheme. That scheme suits the Blood Angels, but the Flesh Tearers need to be dark and sinister, and I thought the death masks suited this look perfectly, which is why the whole squad has the, I used the basic pallet of the Flesh Tearers - Red, black and white to make sure there was some unity in the army, while stil giving these guys the unique scheme that they deserve.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">This was my first attempt at primarily drybrushing a Marine model. The black armour and wings were drybrushed, while the otehr details were done in a more traditional hilighting. I wanted the look of the armour to be statue-esque, and I thought drybrushing would give the best result here.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">These models were also the first I painted to use Army painter ink washes extensively. Quite simply, these washes are superb, easily the best on the market. Buy some immediately, they will improve and speed up your painting no end.</span><br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08509354813268427653noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3264688208614643694.post-18208972651534370802013-02-16T22:37:00.000-08:002015-02-26T04:30:39.451-08:00Flesh Tearer Bikes<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I've always loved the Space Marine Bike models, and the Attack Bike. These models are some of the oldest Marine models I own, going way back to when they were first released in the mid 90s.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The Flesh Tearer icons on the fenders were made using Greenstuff. I am no modeller, using greenstuff is something I've always struggled with. There's a trick to it, which I haven't learnt yet.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I had the work done by a user named PaganFoam, check out his youtube channel here: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/PaganFoam/">www.youtube.com/user/PaganFoam/</a> I don't know if he is still doing painting/modelling commsions, but I'm sure he'll be accommodating if you contact him.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Some more modelling work of his is seen in the Sanguinary Guard models.</span><br />
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<a href="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j261/liammail/1e11dc798f94c44e0185585c30cb7357.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j261/liammail/1e11dc798f94c44e0185585c30cb7357.jpg" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j261/liammail/3dd660fa0b1fc95da4b5a7854d348e46.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j261/liammail/3dd660fa0b1fc95da4b5a7854d348e46.jpg" height="478" width="640" /> </a></div>
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<a href="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j261/liammail/7cc903090a10f0bdd3a57b5c048202b9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j261/liammail/7cc903090a10f0bdd3a57b5c048202b9.jpg" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08509354813268427653noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3264688208614643694.post-19560920086280573682013-02-16T22:28:00.000-08:002015-02-26T04:31:17.746-08:00Flesh Tearer Assault Marines<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Alrighty, it wouldn't be a Blood Angels successor chapter if there wasn't Assault Marines. Now, I like Assault Marines, but I think they are over-represented in BA and BA-successor lists. Just because you can select them as troops, doesn't mean you always should. The most important thing for me about an army is its visual appeal and impact on the table, and so a mix of Assault and Tac Marines is a must. I couldn't imagine a Space Marine army without Tac Marines.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Anyway, here are some of the jumpy fellows:</span><br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08509354813268427653noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3264688208614643694.post-60407216559412516762013-02-16T22:20:00.001-08:002015-02-26T04:31:40.817-08:00Flesh Tearers Tactical Marines<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">First up, let's have a look at my Warhammer 40,000 army, the Flesh Tearers.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">This is a constant work in progress. I paint this army primarily for enjoyment, as I rarely play 40K anymore.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Let's have a look at some Tac Marines first.</span><br />
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The shoulder pads are from Games Workshop, and have a sculpted Flesh Tearer icon. The resin bases are from Back 2 Base-ix, ( www.http://www.back2base-ix.com/ ) an awesome Australian company that sell of all manner of Wargaming accessories. Their resin bases are stunning and are also incredibly cheap - 10 x 25mm round bases like you see here sell for A$6.95<br />
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The backbanner icon you can see on the Sergeant is a resin piece from Chapterhouse Studios ( http://chapterhousestudios.com/ ) - more on them later.<br />
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The colour scheme is based on a deep red, not the typical red-gore colour that produces a more browny-red that is often associated with the Flesh Tearers. I like the deep red better. <br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08509354813268427653noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3264688208614643694.post-63076049735419409072013-02-16T22:01:00.001-08:002015-02-26T04:31:52.663-08:00Welcome to Tales From the Paintpot!<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Hi all, thanks for having a look at my own corner of the blogosphere.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">This blog serves a few purposes - to inspire others and to motivate myself. I'm not the world's greatest painter, but when I start a new project I like to look at as many pictures as I can to get some ideas. It doesn't have to be a brilliant paint-job to be an inspirational one, just a well-thought out paint-job. I love nothing more than trawling the net for pics of painted miniatures to get ideas from, so I hope you find something here that you can use, and if not, I hope you enjoy your stay anyway :)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Secondly, I hope the desire to keep regular blog updates helps keep me motivated on certain projects. Like most painters I have far too many projects on the go at once and a ridiculous back-log that seems to be a never diminishing pile!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I also hope that my photography of minis improves throughout the course of keeping this blog. It is fairly basic at the moment, and I do intend to practice to get better results. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Cheers all!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Liam</span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08509354813268427653noreply@blogger.com0